Hawaii - 1999
My friends picked me up from the airport and we drove straight to the beach to try and get a first session in just before dark. We didn't get there in time, but it really didn't matter because we just threw out a blanket on this long stretch of beach and just slept there under the stars for the night. It did get pretty cold at night (50's), to the point where I was wrapping my blanket underneath me to stay warm, but when I woke up in the morning, picked my head up off my pillow and looked at the ocean, I spotted this first little set coming in.... Not bad for a first wave. Needless to say, we were on it...

All images Copyright ©Ed Timmons
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